Győr

Győr, halfway between Budapest and Vienna, is a walking town (1 day; 2 with Pannonhalma): from Széchenyi Square over the cathedral hill to an island in the Rába, with Pannonhalma as a train trip.

From Budapest, Győr is a MÁV train from Keleti. The walk begins at Széchenyi tér, a public square with no ticket and no opening hours, and from there heads for Káptalan hill, the church and civic centre of the town.

By the hill the Mosoni-Duna, the Rába and the Rábca meet, and the Roman settlement of Arrabona stood on this spot. The cathedral (Nagyboldogasszony-székesegyház) is free and closed during services, so go in when there is no mass. Beside it stands the Bishop's Castle (Püspökvár), recognisable by its unfinished tower; the tower viewpoint has a ticket, €5.52, daily daily 10–18; tickets until 30 min before closing.

On the same hill are the reliquary exhibition Legenda Aurea, €4.14, and JAURINUM, the cathedral treasury, which is open Mon–Sat 10–12 and 14–17; Sun 15–17. Between 12 and 14 the treasury is therefore shut, so that hour goes on the rest of the hill or on lunch. The memorial exhibition to Blessed Vilmos Apor is guided only at set times, daily 10–18; guided only at 11 and 15.

From there the way leads down to the river, to Radó Island (Radó-sziget), a park of just under two hectares on the Rába. It is not a natural island: in 1660–1670 it was raised out of burnt brick as a bastion of Győr's fortress, and the city bought it in 1836 to be a place for public enjoyment. Entry is free and there is no closing day; the park shows how the town went from fortress to promenade.

That leaves water and half a day at a different pace. Rába Quelle (RQ Water Adventure Park and Thermal Spa) costs €13.52 (Mon–Thu), €19.04 (Fri–Sun) on a day ticket; public holidays are charged at the weekend price. With one more day, Pannonhalma is the shortest trip: about 25 min on a local train, to an abbey that has been on the UNESCO list since 1996.