Belgrade in 2 days
Kalemegdan, Savamala and Zemun in two days — with one evening that is not spent in the centre.
- How long
- 2 for the city
- Getting around
- The centre on foot
- Rhythm
- Museums by day
Belgrade in two days: the fortress and the centre on the first, ending at sunset over the confluence, then Vračar and Zemun on the Danube. Two things hold the plan in place — the hour before sunset, which shifts by four and a half hours across the year, and museum opening times, two of which close on Mondays.
The fortress, the pedestrian street and one evening
The National Museum on Republic Square, two hours, then down Knez Mihailova towards the fortress. On Thursdays and Saturdays the museum opens only at noon; on those days do Kalemegdan first and the museum after lunch.
Kalemegdan. You enter through the Stambol Gate, and inside the walls are the Military Museum and Ružica — a church whose chandeliers are made from First World War shell casings and sabres.
Lunch in Dorćol, the quarter below the fortress, on the Danube side.
The fortress's Lower Town: from Dorćol you enter from below, by the Nebojša Tower on the Danube, and climb along the ramparts back up to the Victor — without retracing your steps.
The confluence from the terrace by the Victor, in the last hour before sunset. The 18:30 slot fits late August and April; in late June the sun sets around half past eight, in late December around four, so the evening moves with it.
Skadarlija, cobbles and taverns with live music played at the table. This is the evening for the centre; what to order in a kafana is on the food page.
Vračar, Zemun and the water
The Temple of Saint Sava on Vračar: first the space under the dome, then the crypt beneath it. Tesla is not until noon, so there is no hurry here.
The Nikola Tesla Museum on Krunska. Entry is by guided tour only, in Serbian or English; tours start on the hour and last about 45 minutes. Tesla's ashes are here.
Zemun, by bus or taxi. Until 1918 the Austro-Hungarian side of the border — the architecture changes abruptly; from the Gardoš tower you look down on the Danube.
The Zemun quay below Gardoš, then fish at one of the places on the water. If you have the legs after dinner, the quay carries on along the Danube all the way to the Sava confluence.
What wrecks this schedule
- The Military Museum after four. It closes at five and sells its last ticket at four; that is why the plan has it at half past twelve, not at sunset.
- Day 1 on a Monday. The National and Military Museums are shut; do Day 2 instead, because the Tesla Museum opens on Mondays too.
Before you go
Short answers to what people ask most before setting out.
How many days does Belgrade need?
Two for the city. A third makes sense for Avala, an unhurried Zemun, or a day trip to Novi Sad.
Can I pay by card at the Nikola Tesla Museum?
No. Tickets are cash only, in dinars, and are not sold online — you buy them at the door.
When should I go to Kalemegdan?
Twice: around midday for the Military Museum, which sells its last ticket at four, and an hour before sunset for the confluence. That is why the plan splits the fortress into two visits on the same day.
Ready for Belgrade?
Where to next
Day trips from Belgrade
→Novi Sad is the nearest by train, Đerdap and the Ovčar-Kablar gorge want a car and about two hours' drive…
Deliblato Sands · 45 km
→Sand dunes in Banat, ninety minutes from Belgrade
How well does Belgrade suit you?
→Six questions: a score for this place and others like it.
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