Belgrade off the main axis: a bunker, a river tower and Tito's tomb

Belgrade away from Knez Mihailova and Skadarlija: two addresses on the part of Kalemegdan nobody strolls through, Tito's tomb at Dedinje and three places in the oldest quarters, each with the reason to go. Ružica, Gardoš and Cetinjska 15 are on the main Belgrade page, so they are not repeated here.

The military bunker in the Upper Town

The entrance is opposite the Victor monument. A date from October 1953 is carved into the stairs: the bunker is one of several hundred gun and machine-gun positions the army built on the fortress in the years after the Cominform resolution, when an attack was expected from the east. It was never used for what it was built for.

Nebojša Tower

Down in the Lower Town, on the Danube, below the walls of the Upper Town. The Hungarians built the tower around 1460 at the entrance to the fortress's Danube port; it is octagonal, 19 metres tall, with walls 2.8 metres thick. It later served as a prison, and the Greek revolutionary and poet Rigas Feraios was strangled there in 1798. Since a restoration finished in 2010 it has been a museum with a multimedia display on the prison and the city's liberation from the Ottomans, and the first recorded football match in Serbia was played on the meadow in front of it in 1896.

The House of Flowers

Within the grounds of the Museum of Yugoslavia at Dedinje, Mihaila Mike Jankovića 6. The architect Stjepan Kralj designed it in 1975 as a winter garden where Tito worked and rested; he was buried in it in May 1980, and Jovanka Broz beside him in 2013. The central part is the garden with the grave, and the two side corridors hold the Relay of Youth batons from 1957 onwards — local, republic and federal, with the messages, photographs and rally programmes that travelled with them.

2 daysWhere these addresses fit into the two-day plan:Belgrade in 2 days →

Three more

• Kosančićev Venac — cobbled streets above the Sava, the oldest part of Belgrade outside the fortress walls, protected as a cultural monument since 1979. The foundations of the National Library stand here, and the same protected quarter holds Princess Ljubica's Residence of 1829–1831.
• The Bajrakli mosque — Gospodar Jevremova 11, in Dorćol. The present building dates from the second half of the 17th century; it was set on fire in 2004 during riots that followed violence in Kosovo, and restored. It is small, in use, and visited quietly.
• Kalenić market — Vračar, with entrances from Njegoševa and from Maksima Gorkog. It opened in 1926, when the Great Market in the centre closed; besides seasonal vegetables, cheese and flowers it sells birds, rabbits and aquarium fish.

FoodWhere to eat in these quarters, and at what price:What to eat in Belgrade →

One hack

On the first Thursday of each month individual entry to the Museum of Yugoslavia is free, as it is on national public holidays and on 4 and 25 May. If your stay covers one of those days, go to Dedinje then — and never on a Monday.

Where to stayWhich area to sleep in near these addresses:Where to stay in Belgrade →

BudgetWhat's free to see here, and what isn't:What Belgrade costs →

Getting aroundHow to get to Zemun and Dedinje:Getting around Belgrade →

When to goWhich month keeps all of this open without the crowds:The best time to visit Belgrade →

Day tripsWhat's on a similar list outside the city:Day trips from Belgrade →

MistakesWhat not to do in these quarters:Mistakes everyone makes in Belgrade →