Pilsen

Pilsen takes 2 days, because the Pilsner Urquell brewery — the tour, the museum and the tasting — fills the first day on its own, and the underground, the cathedral and the synagogue fill the second. A train or coach from Prague takes about 1 h 20.

The train or coach from Prague (České dráhy train or RegioJet/FlixBus coach) takes about 1 h 20 to a station close to Republic Square, the city's main square. Above it rises St Bartholomew's Cathedral, whose 102.6-metre tower is the tallest church tower in the Czech Republic; the climb is €4.50, 10:00–18:30 (last entry 18:00), none (except bad weather).

Beneath the same square begins the Historical Underground of Plzeň, a network of medieval tunnels separate from everything else in the city: the tour lasts 60 min, entry €10.25, daily, and a slot needs booking (yes) since groups are capped.

Also on the square stands the Brewery Museum, where the city's story with beer starts before the brewery itself: entry €6.15, Tue–Sun 9–17, closed Monday, the visit takes 60 min.

A few streets further, where the first golden lager was brewed in 1842, stands the Pilsner Urquell brewery itself. The tour with tasting runs 100 min, costs €17.60, runs per tour calendar (book a slot online), and booking is recommended since slots fill up the calendar in advance.

Back towards the centre, the Great Synagogue is Europe's second-largest: entry €5.75, open Sun–Thu 10–17, closed Friday, Saturday, Jewish holidays.

Anyone staying a third day can reach Karlovy Vary by coach in up to 1 h 30, ticket €8.20; or Plasy Monastery by train, about 30 min, ticket €5.75; or the Klatovy Catacombs, about 55 min, ticket €5.75.