Rtanj in 2 days
The first day keeps the whole climb to Šiljak and the ruins at the top, the second leaves Rtanj village for the tea and the Ledenica pit, with the coach back from Sokobanja.
- How long
- 1–2 days, staying over in Sokobanja
- Climbing Šiljak
- 2–3 h (ascent) (booking: no
- Where to sleep
- No hostel (none)

Rtanj is a physically small mountain — 2–3 h (ascent) reaches the summit — so 1–2 days cover both the climb and what stays at the foot of it: a tea that grows only on the southern slopes, and one of the pits in the mountain's karst. The first day goes entirely to Šiljak, the second stays around Rtanj village, with coach Niš–Sokobanja (Niš-ekspres) back to Niš (INI airport) at the end.
Climbing Šiljak, the chapel ruins
Niš-ekspres coach from Niš (INI airport) — about 1 h 20 to Sokobanja, fare €8.70.
Onward transfer to Rtanj village, the trailhead: Sokobanja–Rtanj village 18 km (about 35 min).
Start the climb to Šiljak: 2–3 h (ascent) (booking: no, closed day: none); the last stretch is a narrow rocky path, solid-soled boots are a must.
At the top: the ruins of St George's chapel, reached on the same approach as the summit (booking: no, closed day: none).
Descend the same trail back to the village.
Dinner in Sokobanja: dish of the day €4.34–5.03 (dish of the day), a main course at a restaurant €6.39–9.37.
Carry all your water in advance and set off before ten — the sun reaches the bare rocky stretch sooner than the forest section suggests.

Rtanj tea, the Ledenica pit and the way back
In Rtanj village: buying Rtanj tea from locals or the local pharmacy, €2.68–2.79 (80–100 g) for a pack.
The Ledenica pit, one of the pits in the mountain's karst: the entrance sits at the bottom of a shallow sinkhole, close to the village.
Back to Sokobanja for lunch — €4.34–5.03 (dish of the day) for the dish of the day.
Niš-ekspres coach back to Niš (INI airport), the same about 1 h 20.
There's no hostel (none): Sokobanja and Rtanj village only have private rooms, apartments and hotels.
What spoils the plan
- Setting off late for Šiljak. The trail has no shade; leaving after ten means the sun reaches the rocky stretch before the hikers do.
- No cash for the tea. Locals in the village sell it directly, with no card reader.
- No organised transport for the last leg. coach Niš–Sokobanja (Niš-ekspres) only reaches Sokobanja; the Sokobanja–Rtanj village 18 km (about 35 min) to the village needs a taxi or your own car, arranged ahead.
Before you go
Short answers to what people ask most before setting out.
How many days does Rtanj need?
1–2 days: one covers just the Šiljak climb, the second leaves time for Rtanj tea and the Ledenica pit.
Does the Šiljak climb need booking?
No — the trail is open without notice (closed day: none).
How do you reach Rtanj without a car?
coach Niš–Sokobanja (Niš-ekspres) to Sokobanja, about 1 h 20; the last Sokobanja–Rtanj village 18 km (about 35 min) to the village is by taxi or transport arranged in advance.
Ready for Rtanj?
Where to next

The best time to visit Rtanj
→The same trail all twelve months, but the temperature on the bare rock and the ice at the summit change how…

Sokobanja · 15 km
→The spa town where Prince Miloš officially sent his first patient in 1837

How well does Rtanj suit you?
→Six questions: a score for this place and others like it.
Front row for the next trip
Leave your email and we'll let you know when a new destination or story goes up.