Warsaw in 2 days

The Warsaw Uprising Museum, at Grzybowska 79. The sixty-three days of the 1944 uprising, told in the first person. Admission is €8.06, and tickets are sold until half an hour before it closes at six.

Lunch and a break. You do not walk straight from the Uprising Museum into another museum — it is the one thing in this plan that is not skipped.

POLIN, the museum of the history of Polish Jews, on the site of the former ghetto. Most of the display covers the thousand years before the war, which is why it comes after the uprising rather than before. The ticket with audio guide is €10.36; on Saturdays it stays open until eight.

The Palace of Culture and Science and the thirtieth-floor viewpoint, €6.91. Open until eight, and until the end of September until midnight on Fridays and Saturdays.

The Old Town and the Royal Castle. The castle holds two Rembrandts, from the Lanckoroński collection.

The Krakowskie Przedmieście heading south — the city's main axis, with the university, churches, and benches that play Chopin when you press a button.

Łazienki, the park with the Palace on the Isle and its peacocks. On Sundays there are free piano recitals beneath the Chopin monument: from mid-May to the end of June at noon, from July to the end of September at noon and at four.

Praga across the river: genuinely pre-war houses, courtyards with shrines in them, Ząbkowska street and the old Koneser vodka factory.