Skopje in 3 days

Start on Macedonia Square, which covers 18,500 m² and holds the Warrior on a Horse, unveiled in 2011, and most of what looks ancient here went up between 2010 and 2014 under the Skopje 2014 project, which added over 40 monuments to a centre that the 1963 earthquake had destroyed by about 80%. Then cross the Stone Bridge, 214 m long and built in 1451–1469 on Roman foundations, because the real age begins on its far side.

Cross into the Old Bazaar and climb to the Mustafa Pasha Mosque, built in 1492 on a plateau above the market, where a garden of roses surrounds the courtyard. Visitors go in outside prayer times, with shoulders covered and shoes off, and a few streets away stand Suli An, a 15th-century han, and the Daut Pasha Hammam, which now holds a gallery display.

Destan in the bazaar serves kebapi, small grilled sausages of minced meat, while a bakery burek is the quicker option at €1.30–2.43.

Kale is a 14-minute walk from the bridge, and the last stretch is uphill, so keep it for after lunch. The fortress goes back to the 6th century, and Stefan Dušan was crowned emperor here in 1346. The ground is uneven and some lookouts are unstable, so stay on the paths and take in the view over the bazaar roofs towards Vodno.

Stay in the bazaar, where cafés and restaurants keep late hours even after the shops have shut, or cross to Debar Maalo for a beer.

The Archaeological Museum of Macedonia opens at 10, and entry costs €6.49. A guided tour comes with the ticket, and the last admission is at 5 pm, so a slow morning among the exhibits will not be rushed. On the first Saturday of the month entry is free for everyone.

Mother Teresa Memorial House stands on Macedonia Street east of the square, on the site of the church where she was baptised, and she lived in Skopje from 1910 to 1928. Entry is free of charge.

Walk to the old railway station, where the City Museum occupies part of the building and its clock stopped at 5:17, the minute of the 1963 earthquake, so the building is worth a look from outside even if you skip the exhibition.

In Debar Maalo, Kafana Debar Maalo on Živko Čingo Street keeps music in the evening, and Woodstock Beer Bar on Franklin Roosevelt Street is the place for a beer.

Matka Canyon is reached by bus 60, which leaves from the Transport Centre, takes 45 to 60 minutes and costs €1.14–1.62 return, while the boat to Vrelo cave goes for €8.11 once enough passengers have gathered. The monastery of St Andrew in the canyon was founded around 1388.

The alternative is Vodno on foot: take bus 25 to Srednje Vodno, then follow trail 2 for 2.1 km and about an hour to the Millennium Cross at 1,066 m. The climb is roughly 490 m and there is no water on the way, so carry some.