San Gimignano

San Gimignano takes half a day; a full one. Almost everything worth seeing lies between two neighbouring squares, Piazza della Cisterna and Piazza del Duomo. The towers the town is remembered for were raised by rival families against one another, as a show of power.

You arrive on foot, since inside the walls none, all on foot. The first stop is Piazza della Cisterna, the square named after the old well at its centre, ringed by grey stone houses. A few steps on is the adjoining Piazza del Duomo, home to the Collegiata di Santa Maria Assunta and the Palazzo Comunale with the Torre Grossa, the town's tallest tower.

The Collegiata is open 1 Apr–31 Oct: Mon–Fri 10–19.30, Sat 10–17, Sun 12.30–19.30; 1 Nov–31 Mar: Mon–Sat 10–17, Sun 12.30–17, entry €5. The Torre Grossa was built between 1300 and 1311 and stands 54 metres tall; it's the only tower open to visitors, together with the Palazzo Comunale and its picture gallery, for €10, open 1 Apr–31 Oct: 10–19.30 (last entry 19.00); 1 Nov–31 Mar: 11–17.30 (last entry 17.00). From the top the whole ring of walls and the hills of the Val d'Elsa come into view.

Behind the square a path climbs to the Rocca di Montestaffoli, the remains of a fortress turned into a park — free to enter, with no set hours, and it gives the widest view over the town from above. Downhill, at the far end of town, stands Sant'Agostino, with Benozzo Gozzoli's 1464–65 frescoes on the life of St Augustine; entry is free. Along the main street between the two is the Museo della Tortura, €12, open daily 10–19; outside season Sat–Sun only.

The order depends on the hour: the town fills up around midday, once the day-trip groups from Florence and Siena arrive. Staying the night buys a quieter evening and a Vernaccia tasting without watching the clock for the last bus.