The Santorini away from the caldera

Fira, Oia and the path between them are what gets seen first; these four places sit inland, away from the caldera rim. Pyrgos was the capital before Fira, Ancient Thera is a town from a wholly different era than Akrotiri, Emporio is the island's largest village, and the vineyards around all three grow differently from anywhere else.

Pyrgos — the capital before Fira

The village at the island's highest point was Santorini's capital until 1800, when Fira took over that role. The fortress at the top of the village was built around 1580 — the last of the island's castles — and a monastery to St George was later built where a demolished tower had stood. The houses once formed the outer wall of the fortification themselves, with a single entrance; tunnels were dug beneath the village as a refuge. Free to walk into, and a protected settlement since 1995.

3 daysWhere this would fit alongside the three-day plan:Santorini in 3 days →

Ancient Thera — a different town, a different era

Not to be confused with Akrotiri: this is a Dorian town on the Mesa Vouno ridge, between Kamari and Perissa, far younger than Bronze Age Akrotiri. A narrow, steep road of three kilometres climbs up from Kamari, or a footpath of about five, from either village. Entry €10 (reduced €5), 8:30–15:30, closed Wednesdays.

Getting aroundHow the KTEL bus reaches Kamari, from where the road continues on foot or by taxi:Getting around Santorini →

Emporio — the largest village, the fewest visitors

Emporio is the island's largest village, with a medieval kastro at its centre — houses packed into a wall, narrow passages and windmills along the edge. Unlike Fira and Oia, there are no tickets or souvenirs sold on every corner here; entry is free, and most of it is seen on foot, with no set route.

Where to stayWhich part of the island to sleep in, if that kind of quiet is the goal:Where to stay in Santorini →

Basket-trained vineyards

Vines on Santorini don't grow up a wire but coil into themselves, into a low basket just above the ground — that shields them from the constant wind and keeps moisture in volcanic ash that sees no rain for months. The phylloxera louse that wiped out vineyards across Europe in the 19th century never reached here, since the ash has no clay for it to live in. Several wineries around Pyrgos, Megalochori and Vothonas offer tastings looking out over the fields.

FoodWhat local food goes with this wine:What to eat in Santorini →

An order that makes sense

Pyrgos and Emporio sit close to each other, inland — they fit into the same afternoon, away from the caldera plan. Ancient Thera pairs with a beach day in Kamari or Perissa, since that's exactly where the climb starts. The wineries fit most naturally alongside Pyrgos, in the same part of the island.

Day tripsWhat goes by boat off the island itself, if there's time left:Day trips from Santorini →

BudgetExactly what all this costs:What Santorini costs →

When to goWhich month suits this side of the island:The best time to visit Santorini →

MistakesWhat most often goes wrong here:Mistakes everyone makes in Santorini →