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Road to the Sahara: Marrakech to the dunes, stage by stage

Nomadinho·Ait Ben Haddou and the road to the Sahara, Morocco
Published
6 February 2025
Reading
4 min read
Ait Ben Haddou and the road to the Sahara, Morocco
Ait Ben Haddou and the road to the Sahara, Morocco · Elena Tatiana Chis, CC BY-SA 4.0
In brief

The road from Marrakech to the dunes is about 560 kilometres and eight to nine hours of pure driving. Anyone who stops to look splits it over two days — and day one usually unravels at Ait Ben Haddou.

From Marrakech to the Erg Chebbi dunes at Merzouga is about 560 kilometres, over the Tizi n'Tichka pass at 2,260 metres. Without stopping that's eight to nine hours of driving, nine to ten with lunch and fuel — so if you plan to look at anything on the way, the road splits into two days.

GuideMarrakech before the road — how many days for the city?Marrakech →
ItemAmount
Marrakech → Ait Ben Haddou4–5 h, across the High Atlas and the pass
Ait Ben Haddou → Ouarzazateabout 30 km
Ouarzazate → Dades valley or Tinghirfirst night
Tinghir → Todra Gorge → Merzougaday two, to the dunes

Verdict — two days one way, if you stop to look at anything. Times are driving only — time spent at Ait Ben Haddou and in the gorges isn't included.

Ait Ben Haddou — the stop that turns into half a day

Day one usually unravels right here. The plan is a photo stop, but the rammed-earth village needs an hour or two at least, and those hours come out of the daylight left for the rest of the road. If you want Ait Ben Haddou and the gorges without rushing, don't push on to Dades the same day: sleep in Ouarzazate and leave Dades and Todra for day two.

GuideAit Ben Haddou on its own — worth a night?Ait Ben Haddou →
Ait Ben Haddou from above — where a photo stop turns into two hours.
Ait Ben Haddou from above — where a photo stop turns into two hours.

Ouarzazate and the Todra Gorge

Ouarzazate is a film-studio town: Atlas Studios, five kilometres west of the centre, has been running since 1983, and parts of 'Gladiator', 'The Mummy', 'Kingdom of Heaven' and 'Game of Thrones' were shot in and around it. The reason is the landscape around the town, which on screen can pass for many countries.

On day two the road runs up the valley to Tinghir and the Todra Gorge. In places the walls rise up to 400 metres, and the best stretch is the last one, about 600 metres long, where the gorge narrows to around ten metres between walls 160 metres high. After Todra the road runs via Erfoud to Merzouga and the dunes.

Who one day isn't enough for

Anyone who wants the dunes. One day covers Ait Ben Haddou and back to Marrakech. The dunes can be reached in a day only by driving without looking; with anything on the way it's two days one way, and the road back is just as long — so this isn't planned as a transfer but as part of the trip, with nights of its own.

GuideMerzouga and a night in the desert — what's there to do?Merzouga →
Plan the trip

Morocco, in brief

Visa
Many nationalities enter visa-free for up to 90 days; others apply for the e-visa or at a consulate
Currency
Dirham (MAD), a closed currency — changed on arrival, and no more than 2,000 MAD may leave the country
When to go
March–May and late September–November; summer only for the coast; winter for the desert by day, with nights near freezing
Getting around
North by rail: Tangier–Casablanca 2 h 10, Casablanca–Marrakech 2 h 40, Marrakech–Fes 6.5–7 h. South by road: Aït Benhaddou 4–5 h, Merzouga 9–11 h, Essaouira 3 h from Marrakech
Getting there
Marrakech airport (RAK) is 5 km from the centre, Fes–Saïss (FEZ) 12 km and Casablanca (CMN) 25 km, all as the crow flies
Good to know
Haggling is expected in the souks. Alcohol only in licensed venues — drinking in the street is illegal
Where next

What now

If this sounds like your trip, start here.

  1. Allow about 560 km to the Merzouga dunes — if you stop for anything, that's two days one way, not one.
  2. Give Aït Benhaddou an hour or two, not a photo stop; entry to the village is free, whatever you are told at the gate.
  3. In the Todra Gorge go on to the last six hundred metres — there it is about ten metres wide, between walls 160 high.
On the map

Ait Ben Haddou, Marrakech and Essaouira from this story

See which of them suits you, then pin what you have already done.

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Photo credits and licences (7)

All photographs come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licence stated beside each one.