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Story from the road

The great migration month by month: what the calendar knows and what it only promises

Nomadinho
Published
4 June 2026
Reading
5 min read
Where
The Serengeti and the Masai Mara
The Serengeti and the Masai Mara
The Serengeti and the Masai Mara · Daniel Rosengren, CC BY 4.0
In brief

Where the herds are each month is known, the day of a river crossing is not, and the number in the brochures dates from the 1970s — satellites found under six hundred thousand in August.

The great migration calendar is reliable on place and season and unreliable on the two things that sell best: the day of a river crossing and the number of animals. The herds circle between the southern Serengeti and the Masai Mara behind the rain, so every row of the table shifts by a few weeks; they are in Kenya from July to October and in Tanzania all year. And the number in the brochures is an aerial estimate that has not moved since the 1970s — a satellite count in August 2022 and 2023 found fewer than six hundred thousand.

GuideThe Serengeti beyond the calendar — camps, prices, how many days?Serengeti →

One table, two countries

ItemAmount
December–MarchTanzania: the southern Serengeti and Ndutu; calving in late January and February
April–MayTanzania: the long rains, the herds move towards the centre and west of the park
June–JulyTanzania: the western corridor and the Grumeti river, then north and the first Mara crossings
August–OctoberTanzania and Kenya: the northern Serengeti and the Masai Mara, Mara crossings in both directions
NovemberTanzania: the short rains, the return south through the east of the park

Kenya — July to October; Tanzania has herds all year. A shift of a few weeks either way is the rule, not the exception: the herds follow the rain, not the date.

How many there really are

The figure of more than 1.3 million wildebeest comes from counts made from aircraft and has barely changed since the 1970s; in the 1950s there were about 250,000. A research team counted the herds on satellite images of the northern Serengeti and south-western Kenya in August 2022 and 2023, over more than four thousand square kilometres, with two artificial-intelligence methods: about 330,000 in the first year and 500,000 to 530,000 in the second — and those figures include zebra, which a satellite cannot tell from wildebeest. The paper, published in PNAS Nexus in 2025, leaves two explanations: aerial counts take a sample and extend it over ground nobody flew, or there really are fewer animals, through lost habitat, climate and predators. Neither has been ruled out.

For a traveller it means the number in the brochure is an inheritance, not a measurement — and the same goes for the number of calves, worked out from the same estimate. The calendar does not change: in August the herds are where they always were, only nobody knows exactly how many.

The calving

The one event with a date

Of everything in the loop, the calving is closest to a timetable. The females give birth almost together — within a window of about three weeks, according to a study published in Scientific Reports in 2018 — on the short grass of the southern Serengeti and around Ndutu, in late January and February. The window repeats every year on the same stretch of plain, so February is booked by date.

The river crossing

A known month, an unknown day

The Mara crossing is the opposite case. From August to October the herds are along the river on both sides of the border and cross it in both directions, but nobody can sell the day or the place — an operator who guarantees it is selling something they do not have. So a crossing is bought not with a date but with nights by the river.

When to goHow many nights and which camp for a crossing, on the Kenyan side:The best time to visit Masai Mara →

The decision by goal

  • A sure sight on a date: late January or February, the southern Serengeti and Ndutu — Tanzania.
  • A river crossing: August or September, the northern Serengeti or the Mara; plan by nights, not by day.
  • Kenya outside July–October: the Mara has its own animals then, but not the migrating herds — a safari, not the migration.
When to goThe Serengeti month by month, with rain and prices:The best time to visit Serengeti →
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Departures tied to the migration
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Tanzania, in brief

Visa
Depends on your passport; where required, an e-visa through the official immigration portal, €43 single entry, usually ready in a few days but applied for at least three weeks ahead as a buffer. For Zanzibar a compulsory €38 insurance per adult on top, through visitzanzibar.go.tz. Yellow fever card only when arriving from a risk country
Currency
Tanzanian shilling (TZS); safaris, park fees and hotels are contracted in dollars. Dollar notes must be recent and undamaged — old series are refused
Language
Swahili and English; English everywhere in tourism, Italian too on Zanzibar
When to go
June–October dry and best for safari; January–February for the calving in the southern Serengeti; March–May the long rains, cheap but wet. Zanzibar is best June–October and December–February
Getting there
Kilimanjaro airport (JRO) for the safari, 44 km from Arusha as the crow flies; Zanzibar airport (ZNZ), 7 km from Stone Town; Dar es Salaam airport (DAR), 9 km from the city, is the third entry
Getting around
Safari only with a registered vehicle and guide; Arusha–Serengeti 7–8 h by road or a light aircraft; Dar–Zanzibar by ferry in 2 h or by air in 20 minutes
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Photo credits and licences (8)

All photographs come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licence stated beside each one.