Castles of Austria: six strongholds from Vienna to Innsbruck

Austria keeps its castles close to its cities, so the route runs from east to west. Two stops lie around Vienna, one in green Styria, two in the Salzburg area and the last above Innsbruck. The six are very different in age and in purpose, from a medieval fortress that was never taken to a Habsburg summer palace and a castle rebuilt in the 19th century. Each one is a day trip from the nearest city, so you can base yourself in Vienna, Graz, Salzburg and Innsbruck and drive or ride out.

Kreuzenstein stands on a ridge above Leobendorf, north of Vienna, and looks like a medieval castle that was never touched, although most of what you see was rebuilt in the 19th century. The counts of Formbach raised the first fortress in the 12th century, the Habsburgs took it in 1278, and Swedish troops under Torstensson destroyed it in 1645.

Count Johann Nepomuk Wilczek began rebuilding it in 1874 from the original walls, the east tower and parts of the chapel. He added medieval pieces collected from other buildings, and the castle reopened in June 1906. Visits are by guided tour only, at €15, and the tours are in German with English information sheets on request. Hours: 1 April–31 October, Mon–Sat 10–16, Sun and holidays 10–17; guided tours only, on the hour. From Vienna take the S-Bahn towards Stockerau to Leobendorf-Kreuzenstein, then walk for about 40 minutes, or drive out on the A22 to the Korneuburg West exit.

Schönbrunn is a palace rather than a fortress, and it belongs on the route because it shows what the Habsburgs built once they no longer needed walls. The State Apartments are the grand rooms of the main floor, and the longer tour also takes in the private rooms of Franz Joseph and Elisabeth. If you have time for only one Vienna castle, take this one, and keep Kreuzenstein for a second day.

The shorter State Apartments ticket takes about 40 minutes and is €30, while the Palace Ticket runs for about 75 minutes at €42, both with an audio guide. The palace is open daily from 8.30, closing at 17.30 (Jul–Aug 18.00, from 3 November 17.00), and since admission is by time slot it is better to book online. The park is free from 6.30, and line U4 stops at Schönbrunn.

Day tripsDay trips from Vienna, with Kreuzenstein and the Wachau:Day trips from Vienna →

Riegersburg sits on a volcanic rock in south-east Styria and is the largest fortress in the province. It is first mentioned in a document of 1128 and was extended in the 17th century. The Liechtenstein family has owned it since 1822.

Inside there are three museums, on the castle itself, on witches and on weapons, and a short funicular climbs the rocky slope for those who would rather not walk. The Ritter ticket, which covers the climb and the interiors, is €23.90, and the castle is open daily: to the end of April 10–17, May–Sep 9–18, October–1 November 10–17. It is 50 minutes from Graz by car and 1 hour 45 minutes from Vienna. By public transport, take the train to Feldbach and then RegioBus 406, which stops at the lift.

Day tripsGraz and its day trips, with Riegersburg first among them:Day trips from Graz →

Hohensalzburg is one of the largest medieval castles in Europe, about 250 metres long and 150 metres wide. Building began in 1077 under Archbishop Gebhard. The only siege came in the Peasants' War of 1525, and the fortress did not fall. A funicular runs up from the old town.

The basic ticket, which includes the funicular, is €15.50, and the fortress is open May–Sep 8.30–20, rest of year 9.30–17. Allow 2 h.

GuideSalzburg below the fortress, from the old town to the Mirabell gardens:Salzburg →

Hohenwerfen was begun in 1077 as well, at the same time as Hohensalzburg and Friesach, and stands on a rock above the Salzach valley. Today it has a falconry demonstration twice a day and an exhibition on the Peasants' War.

The castle tour lasts about 50 minutes and is part of the all-inclusive ticket, which costs from €20.90 with the lift. Hours: May–Sep daily 9–17 (20 Jul–21 Aug to 18), April and Oct–Nov Tue–Sun 9.30–16. It lies about 30 minutes south of Salzburg by car. Regional trains run every half hour and take about 45 minutes to Werfen, and from the station it is a 30-minute walk or a shuttle, then the lift from the car park or a walk of about 20 minutes.

Day tripsDay trips from Salzburg, with Hohenwerfen on the way to the Alps:Day trips from Salzburg →

Ambras stands above Innsbruck and is a Renaissance palace that Archduke Ferdinand II built from 1564 for his wife Philippine Welser. The Spanish Hall, 43 metres long and finished in 1572, holds concerts today. The Chamber of Art and Wonders is the only Renaissance Kunstkammer that still stands where it was made.

The palace became a museum in 1880. Entry is €16 (€12 online), it is open daily 10am–5pm, and it is closed in November. Bus 540 from the main station takes about 10 minutes, or take tram 3 and walk 1.2 kilometres. Plan on at least an hour inside.

GuideInnsbruck, with Ambras on its eastern edge:Innsbruck →