Alicante

Alicante takes two or three days and needs no car, which surprises anyone who has filed it under beach and Benidorm. A medieval castle watches over the old quarter, a marble promenade runs down to the harbour, the market feeds the morning, and the rice is a lunch dish. A third day goes to Tabarca or Elche.

The airport bus C-6 runs round the clock, often by day and less often at night, and the ride takes about 25 minutes for about €4.70, paid to the driver. Get off at Puerta del Mar beside the Explanada or at Luceros, and the rest of the city is on foot. Everything in the first two days sits within walking distance of the old quarter.

Begin at the Mercado Central while the stalls are open, since it closes on Sundays, then walk the Explanada de España, laid in marble in 1958 and 1959. Climb through the lanes of Santa Cruz past the Concatedral. Save the castle for the last two hours of light. The lift costs €2.70 and entry is free, or you can take the path up from Postiguet beach. Eat your rice at noon, because a rice dish on an evening menu is a warning sign, and dine in the old town after half past eight.

Beyond the walk there are four decisions. Postiguet is the city beach under the castle, and San Juan is the longer sand that has flown a blue flag for 40 years running, though it needs a tram or bus. Tabarca is a walled island by boat, and Elche is a palm grove by train. On 24 June the Hogueras burn the city's giant figures, and the castle is shut that day.