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City · France

Bordeaux

A pale-stone city on a river bend, with a hundred and ten thousand hectares of vines around it

3–4 days·Nouvelle-Aquitaine·TGV from Paris 2 h
When to go
October 16° · 14 rainy days
Per day
€€€€price 4 of 5
How many days
3days
For you
6 questions →
Nearest airport
11 km Bordeaux · 87 km Bergerac
Bordeaux
Bordeaux · Calabri, CC BY-SA 3.0

Twenty years ago Bordeaux was black with soot and turned its back on its river. Then the facades were cleaned, the quays became a promenade, and in 2007 the eighteenth-century core was listed by UNESCO as the Port of the Moon, after the bend of the Garonne that wraps around it. It holds over three hundred and sixty protected monuments, more than anywhere in France except Paris.

There are around ten thousand wine estates around the city, and the split is simple: the left bank of the Garonne holds Cabernet Sauvignon and the 1855 classification, the right bank Merlot and Saint-Émilion. You can do it in a day from town — the Bordeaux tourist office sells a half-day château tour from €55 and a full day in Saint-Émilion from €99, guide and tastings included. With more time, the train gets you to Saint-Émilion on your own.

Bordeaux
Bordeaux

La Cité du Vin opened in 2016 and isn't a museum of Bordeaux wine but of wine generally — from Georgian clay jars to Californian valleys. Give it two to three hours, and not on the same day as the vineyards — it belongs to the afternoon of a day spent walking the city.

The city itself is walked. Place de la Bourse was designed by the elder and younger Gabriel in the middle of the eighteenth century, and since 2006 the water mirror has stood in front of it — a granite slab under two centimetres of water, with the whole facade reflected in it. The entire protected centre is crossed on foot through the same pale eighteenth-century stone. The river underneath it isn't blue but brown: the Garonne carries silt from the whole of Aquitaine and changes level with the tide, because the ocean is downstream.

What to see

What to see in Bordeaux

Did you know

Two things you probably did not know

Science

Phylloxera, an aphid brought from America, destroyed the vineyards around Bordeaux in the late nineteenth century. They were saved by grafting French vines onto American rootstock resistant to it. Almost all European wine now grows on American roots.

Art

The water mirror in front of the stock exchange is the largest of its kind in the world: two centimetres of water on granite that turns to mist every twenty minutes or so. It was built in 2006 on what had been a car park.

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Photo credits and licences (9)

All photographs come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licence stated beside each one.