San Pedro de Atacama in 3 days

Nothing strenuous. The village is at 2,400 metres, so day one is slow walking, drinking water and buying tomorrow's tour from one of the agencies on Caracoles street.

Pukará de Quitor, a twelfth-century Atacameño fortress three kilometres from the village. On foot or by bike along the river; the climb is short and enough to check how your body takes the altitude.

Lunch in the village and a siesta — done here because the sun at this altitude genuinely bites, not out of habit.

The Valle de la Luna, fifteen kilometres west and at village altitude. Go before sunset, when the rock changes colour; entry is charged and numbers are capped.

Dinner and an early night — tomorrow is a long tour and the day after starts at half past three.

Departure; a full-day tour south to the Salar de Atacama and the lagoons.

Laguna Chaxa on the salt flat, with three species of flamingo. The flat is the size of a small country and the salt crust cracks underfoot.

The Miscanti and Miñiques lagoons, at about four thousand metres. There is little walking, deliberately — the altitude is tested sitting down rather than climbing.

Lunch in Socaire or Toconao, whose church is built of cactus wood.

Back in San Pedro. In the evening: an astronomy tour, if the moon is not full — a sky free of light pollution is why ALMA stands a hundred kilometres away.

Departure. Not earlier than necessary: the steam only rises while it is cold and stops around nine, so you reach the field at dawn.

The El Tatio field at 4,300 metres — some eighty geysers, the third largest in the world. It is around freezing before sunrise; dress for winter regardless of how warm the village was.

Breakfast beside the geysers and a thermal pool for anyone who brought swimwear.

Back via Machuca, a village of adobe with a small church and llamas along the road.

In the village; if you have anything left, the Puritama hot springs in the afternoon — eight pools in a canyon, tickets bought in advance.