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City · Vietnam

Hoi An

A port the river silted up two centuries ago, and preserved by doing so

Quang Nam·Half an hour from Da Nang airport
When to go
September 28° · 25 rainy days
Per day
€price 1 of 5
How many days
2days
For you
6 questions →
Nearest airport
23 km Da Nang · 89 km Huế
Hoi An
Hoi An · Chainwit, CC BY 4.0

Hoi An was one of the great ports of South-East Asia until the river silted up and the trade moved to Da Nang. The town then stood still for two hundred years and so survived intact — which is why it is UNESCO-listed today rather than under concrete.

The old town ticket is €4 and is usually misunderstood. It does not buy entry to the streets — you walk, eat and photograph those for nothing. The ticket is a booklet of five coupons for five of some twenty protected buildings: Chinese assembly halls, merchant houses, museums and the Japanese Bridge. Enforcement is at the door of each building, not out on the street.

Hoi An
Hoi An

What keeps people a second night is tailoring. The town has several hundred workshops that make to measure in one or two days; quality runs from excellent to poor, and the difference shows not in the window but in how many fittings they call you back for. Anyone planning a suit or a coat arrives on day one and leaves on day three — not the other way round.

In the evening the street lights go off, silk lanterns come on, and candle boats drift down the Thu Bon. It is the most photographed thing in the country and it is crowded, but there is a simple trick: fifteen minutes upstream on foot, across the bridge towards the market, and the same picture comes without the crowd.

What to see

What to see in Hoi An

Did you know

Two things you probably did not know

History

Hoi An was one of the most important ports in Southeast Asia until the river silted up in the nineteenth century. The town stopped changing and stayed as it was, which is why it is UNESCO listed today.

Art

The sixteenth-century Japanese bridge has a temple built into the middle and is guarded by statues of monkeys at one end and dogs at the other. It is printed on the Vietnamese twenty thousand dong note.

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Photo credits and licences (10)

All photographs come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licence stated beside each one.