Where to stay in Cologne

Cologne is small enough that distance hardly matters, so the real question is what kind of evening you want. Sleep in the stone lanes of the Altstadt, among the cafés of the Belgian Quarter, or on the quieter side of the Rhine, and everything a visitor looks for is still a short tram ride or walk away.

The cathedral stands opposite the main station, and the Altstadt begins a short walk from it, down towards the river by way of Heumarkt, Alter Markt and the Martinsviertel. Lanes are narrow, the brewery taverns are close, and a room here means you can see the main sights without buying a transport ticket. That is why it suits a first or short visit, when you want to step out of the door and onto the Domplatte. Lines 5, 16 and 18 stop at Dom/Hbf and line 5 also serves Heumarkt. The cost is noise, since evenings are loud, and during carnival and the Christmas markets the streets are taken over. Anyone who wants silence should look elsewhere.

The Belgian Quarter

Beyond the Ringe, around Rudolfplatz and Friesenplatz, the Belgian Quarter is a grid of boutiques, cafés and bars along streets such as Moltkestraße, and it stays awake late. Lodging here is mostly small hotels and apartments rather than big chains. Lines 1, 7, 12 and 15 meet at Rudolfplatz, so the old town is a few minutes by tram or a walk home after dinner. It fits a couple staying three nights or more who plan to go out every evening. It fits badly if you want the cathedral in your window, or if you need to be asleep before midnight.

Ehrenfeld

Ehrenfeld is the creative district, with murals on the walls, independent places along the bohemian Venloer Straße and a younger crowd. Lines 3, 4 and 13 run to the centre, and the regional train RE 1 stops at Ehrenfeld on its way towards Aachen, which the day trips page covers. Pick it if you have been to Cologne before, want a leaner budget and like to live as locals do. A short first visit is better spent elsewhere, and so is any trip where a daily ride to the cathedral would feel like a chore.

Deutz across the Rhine

Deutz sits on the east bank and was once a town of its own. It is quieter and less touristy, and the view of the cathedral across the river is the reward. The station at Deutz is served by lines 1, 3, 4, 7 and 9 as well as regional trains, and the cable car runs from the Zoo to the Rheinpark. The Koelnmesse exhibition grounds are here too, so during big fairs room prices can jump several times over, and dates are worth checking early. Deutz suits families and anyone arriving by train from another city. It is a poor choice if you want to step out of the hotel into narrow streets.

If you stay one night

For one night, take the Altstadt, an easy walk from the main station and without any transport ticket. If you land at the airport, the S19 reaches Hbf in 14 minutes.

Getting aroundTickets and tram lines by station, and the cable car, come after the choice of area.Getting around Cologne →

FoodThe brewery taverns are in the Altstadt, so the choice of area follows from where you want dinner.What to eat in Cologne →

When to goCarnival, Christmas markets and fairs push room prices up, so the month shapes the area.The best time to visit Cologne →

Story from the roadSix markets from the cathedral to the harbour show which area has one at its door.Cologne Christmas markets: six markets, one route →

Day tripsBonn, Düsseldorf, Aachen and Brühl by train, from Hbf or Deutz.Day trips from Cologne →