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City · Chile

Santiago

A city with the Andes at the end of every street — visible only on the day the wind clears the smog

Región Metropolitana·Nearest airport: Santiago (SCL)
When to go
September 12° · 7 rainy days
Per day
€€€€price 4 of 5
How many days
3days
For you
6 questions →
Nearest airport
15 km Santiago
Santiago
Santiago · Rjcastillo, CC BY 4.0

Santiago sits in a basin between the Andes and the coastal range, which explains both the view and the smog: the mountains hold the air, so the snow on the peaks shows up only after rain or wind. The city is three days, and a base for Valparaíso, the wine country and skiing ninety minutes away.

The metro is the best way to move and the only one independent of traffic: seven lines, clean, and a ride costs €0.66–0.81 depending on the time of day. The bip! card is bought once for €1.40 and topped up at stations; it also works on the Red bus network. Taxis are ordered by app, not hailed.

The city reads through two hills and one palace. Cerro Santa Lucía is a rock in the middle of the centre turned into a park of staircases and terraces; Cerro San Cristóbal is bigger, with a funicular and a cable car and a view across the whole city to the Andes. La Moneda palace is where the 1973 coup happened and is open to visitors; the Museum of Memory and Human Rights, which tells that story, is the one museum in the country we would call compulsory.

For food and evenings there are three districts and they differ clearly. Bellavista sits under San Cristóbal, with Neruda's house and the bars; Lastarria and Bellas Artes are for restaurants and bookshops; Barrio Italia is a former artisans' quarter of workshops and cafés in old houses. The Mercado Central is for lunch rather than dinner — the fish is excellent and the atmosphere switches off after four.

What to see

What to see in Santiago

  • Cerro San Cristóbal

    A hill 880 metres above sea level, with a funicular on one side and a cable car on the other. The view runs across all of Santiago to the Andes, but only after rain or wind — the rest of the time it is haze.

  • The Museum of Memory and Human Rights

    On the years 1973–1990, with documents, footage and the names of the disappeared. Entry is free. Three hours — the hardest, and the most important you will spend in the city.

  • La Moneda

    The presidential palace bombed on 11 September 1973. Tours are free with advance registration; underneath the square is a cultural centre with exhibitions and a cinema.

  • La Chascona

    Neruda's house in Bellavista, built for Matilde Urrutia and fitted out to feel like a ship. The audio guide is excellent and runs an hour. His other two houses are in Valparaíso and Isla Negra.

  • Cerro Santa Lucía

    A rock in the middle of the centre that a nineteenth-century mayor turned into a park of staircases, fountains and terraces. Fifteen minutes up and the best free view in the city.

  • Barrio Italia

    A former artisans' quarter of workshops, furniture shops and restaurants in the yards of old houses. Go in the afternoon and on a Saturday; half of it closes on Sundays.

Did you know

Two things you probably did not know

Science

Since 2018 the Santiago metro has run largely on solar and wind power. It was the first metro system in the world to be powered mainly from renewable sources.

History

The Museum of Memory and Human Rights in Santiago is dedicated to the victims of the Pinochet dictatorship. It opened in 2010, and La Moneda palace, where the 1973 coup took place, is still the president's seat.

All the facts →

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Photo credits and licences (13)

All photographs come from Wikimedia Commons and are used under the licence stated beside each one.